Re: How to remove crease from photo?

Stewy wrote:
> In article <SQzAj.61838$Pv2.16768@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>,
>  measekite <inkystinky@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> 
>> Bob Williams wrote:
>>> krunch.kaptain@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
>>>> Hello,
>>>>
>>>> I have a photo that was folded in half, unfortunately,
>>>> and I wonder if either Photoshop and/or The GIMP are
>>>> able to remove this crease.
>>>>
>>>> Thank you for any assistance.
>>> Easy as pie. I do it all the time.
>>> With Photoshop or Photoshop Elements,
>>> 1.) Select the clone tool, set at 100% opacity and check "aligned"
box.
>>> 2.) Enlarge the image to 300% so you can easily see what you are
doing.
>>> 3.)Select a SOFT brush with a size slightly larger than the width of 
>>> the crease. (Try 7-10 pixels for starters).
>>> 4.)Alt click on a "clean" spot very close to the crease.
>>> 5.)Drag your brush down the middle of the crease and it will magically

>>> disappear.
>>> You will have to "play around" with the process if the crease has many

>>> limbs, but this is the general idea........Good luck.
>>> Bob Williams
>> It is easy unless the fold is in such a place where using the clone
tool 
>> or a healing  brush will not blend well.
> 
> The biggest problem I find with this technique is try to clone out a 
> crease near the subject's eye - any advice on this?

Whenever I've had to do this, I use a very small, soft brush (2-3 
pixels, 10 hardness and select the closest "clean" point I can for my 
source.

Closest means closest color value ... you may have to use parts of the 
other eye to build up the eye that's under the damage.

I also set opacity and flow at about 50%.

Instead of dragging, I use a click, click, click ... moving the pointer 
around like manually spotting a print.

I un-check the "aligned" box. I want my source to stay within that 
"clean" spot, but I change the source point frequently to achieve a 
blend of tones matching the surrounding area that becomes harder to see 
in the repaired image.

All this is done on a duplicate layer. If it goes horribly wrong, 
discard the layer and start again. But it should work, so you can 
flatten the layer into the image later.

It's the same technique you'd use to remove the reflection of strobes 
from a ****trait subject's eye-gl*****. It'll take a long time to build 
up the correction, but it'll be damn near un-detectable in the end.