On Apr 1, 2:29=A0pm, "Dave" <dave2...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> "Vance" <Vance.L...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
>
news:5c30c124-87fe-44e7-a774-f1a4a3be7dbd@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Mar 30, 3:20 am, "Dave" <dave2...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
> > I take a lot of photos of printed material. I place the paper against
th=
e
> > underside of a thick glass plate to insure perfect flatness. I have a
ju=
ry
> > rigged setup that difficult to adjust and tends to be somewhat
unevenly
> > lighted and prone to shadows. If someone has come up with a system
that
> > works well and is VERY CHEAP, please let me know. If you have photos
of
> > your
> > setup, please send them to me at my email address. Thanks.
>
> I made a flourescent lighting system for ****traits, but I don't think
> that would qualify for very cheap.
>
> You might consider using quartz halogen construction 'area' lights.
> You can get them in 500 & 1000 watt sizes for about $50.00 USD each.
> A white sheet suspended in front of them will add diffusion which
> should help with your shadow problem. =A0The larger the apparent light
> source is relative to the subject from the subjects perspective, the
> greater the diffusion.
>
> If you're shooting digital and 'accurate' color is im****tant you can
> adjust that in camera with a custom white balance, or you can
> photograph either a white or neutal gray card, adjust that image in
> your post processing software and apply that adjustment to all the
> images you shoot.
>
> I hope that helps.
>
> Vance
>
> From my perspective, the most difficult part is coming up with a rig
that
> allows for easy adjustment of the position and angles of numerous
lights. =
If
> you have come up with a way to accomplish this please let me know.
Photos
> would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
I don't use the type of setup I described to you since I don't do copy
work and I am not going to put one together to photograph it for
you.
You want even illumination for copy work, that's pretty much it, and
two diffuse light sources coming down from 45 degrees to either side
will give you that. The sheets give you that diffusion. Just run a
light meter set for ambient reading around the surface and move one
(1) of the lights closer or further away as needed to get the readings
within 1/10 of a stop. They will cover a large surface area from a
distance back, so you shouldn't have to worry about fall off toward
the edge of the light field. How you want to interpose the sheets
between the lights and the subject is up to you. Experiment is all I
can say. If there is a professional photographer near you, or an
amateur that is familiar with studio lighting, they can explain
getting the diffusion to you more fully and may even have a simpler
approach.
Vance
Are you shooting textured objects, in which case, why would you shoot
under glass?
There shouldn't be much of a need for any adjustments
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