In article <%inOj.82$i45.45@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>, Marvin <physchem@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrote:
> John wrote:
> > I need to copy some very old black and white portrait
> > photographs. They can't be scanned because they are mounted
> > in glass frames and are very fragile. They are borrowed and
> > I cannot take them out of their enclosure. I must make do
> > with them under glass.
> >
> > I have a Nikon Coolpix 950 that I don't think will help
> > me here. Please let me know if it can.
> >
> > My other camera is a Canon AT-1 that I haven't used in
> > over 20 years. I have a set of macro lenses for it, and
> > remember copying photographs with it. I used some special
> > b&w slow speed film as I recall, and a tripod, lighting,
> > and aperture shutter speed guesses or tests.
> >
> > Helpful suggestions on how to best copy these pictures
> > is welcome. e.g. what film, aperture, shutter speed
> > should I begin with?
> >
> > Or, assuming I'm going to need to do this more in the
> > future (I have begun some serous genealogy), should I
> > bite the bullet and buy a digital SLR? If that route,
> > what is an economical digital SLR? I suppose that if
> > I bought a Canon digital SLR, I could use the handful
> > of AT-1 lenses I have?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for advice!
> >
> > John
>
> I have used a flatbed scanner to scan framed material that
> was too delicate to take out of the frame. The quality of
> the scans was surprisingly good. It is worth a try.
Scanning is a good idea -- but a lot depends on the depth of field of
the scanner's lens. This can vary quite a bit between brands.
If you do decide to use film in your AT-1, use a fine grain low-speed
film such as Kodak TMax 100 or Fuji Neopan 100. Unfortunately Kodak
discontinued Technical Pan years ago. When shot at ISO 25 it was almost
completely grainless.
If you don't have access to a copy stand, mount the pictures on the wall
and use very diffuse light from both sides at about 45 degrees. You may
still need a polarizing filter to get rid of all reflections in the
glass. You should be able to use a polarizer with your Coolpix; it may
take some creative use of gaffer's tape.
An old trick is to take a large piece of black matte board, cut a hole
in the center the diameter of your lens, and mount it so that only the
very end of your lens pokes through. This will get rid of most 90 degree
reflections -- such as you and your camera!
As far as exposure goes, use an incident meter and then compensate if
what you are copying is either very light or very dark.
Good luck!
--k
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