On Oct 28, 4:01 pm, piterengel <pslavi...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> On Oct 28, 12:53 pm, Jean-David Beyer <jdbe...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On 2007-10-28, piterengel <pslavi...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
> > > On Oct 28, 3:48 am, "Ken Hart" <kwh...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> > >> "piterengel" <pslavi...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
> > >>news:1193472333.598880.285210@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >> snip> These are my first two results. I've mounted on camera an
EFKE 25
> > >> > film, I've taken 8 pictures, cut this first part adn put into a
tank.
> > >> > Than I've taken again 8 pictures, the same of first time, cut
film and
> > >> > put un another tank. I've dobe this three times.
> > >> > Than I've developed first part with ID-13 for 3 mins. Images are
well
> > >> > contrasted BUT NOT enough. I remember I'm trying to obtain LINE
works.
> > >> > With the second part I've used Kodak D-85 for 2.5 mins. SURPRISE!
> > >> > Everything is disappeared!!! I've a totally empty film, without
any
> > >> > shadow or kind of figure! What's happen?
>
> > >> Re: the D-85: Completely clear, including no edge printing? That's
a
> > >> processing problem. Either the developer had no activity at all, or
you
> > >> confused the developer and the fixer, and fixed the film first,
completely
> > >> clearing it. (Everyone has to make that mistake at least once...I'm
waiting
> > >> for it to happen to me!)
>
> > >> You might want to take a chunk of film and just put it in the
developer to
> > >> see if it turns black, and how long it takes.
>
> > > Assuming that errors can occour, this is not the case. I've prepared
> > > D-85 and immediately put into the tank, so I've developed film, not
> > > fixed. The fact is that everything is disappeared form film, numbers
> > > of pictures and trade mark too. Surely this is an extremely strong
> > > developer, I'm thinking to try again it but diluited ten times.
>
> > It seems to me that if you are sure you used the solution for D-85
> > that you prepared, and get blank without even the edge numbers and
> > trademarks, before you even fixed the film, then the developer
solution
> > must have been prepared incorrectly or the chemicals you used may
> > have been mislabelled. Assuming you are using 35mm film.
>
> > In my experience, the sheet litho film (Kodak 2553, IIRC) not only has
> > no edge notches, making printing on the correct side something of an
> > artistic experience, but also it has no edge markings.
>
> > Diluting the developper 10x will not help you.
>
> > --
> > .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
> > /V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
> > /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
> > ^^-^^ 07:45:01 up 5 days, 3 min, 1 user, load average: 4.08, 4.08,
4.09
>
> I'm sure both to have developed and not fixed the film and to have
> usaed the right chemicals. I think simply D-85 is too strong and
> completely unsuitable for Efke 35 mm film. I suspect that the critical
> component is acetone, used instead of paraformaldehyde as said before.
> Being this the "infectant" but necessary component for ultracontrast
> developer, maybe it is too effective into bath.
> P.
I've found on an old italian darkroom cookbook these two developers.
1) FERRANIA R7
PART A
sodium sulfite 45 g
hydroquinone 10 g
sodium carbonate 30 g
potassium bromide 2 g
water to 500 ml
PART B
sodium hydroxyde 8 g
water to 500 ml
Mix Part A and Part B.
2) AGFA 22
metol 0.8 g
sodium sulfite 40 g
hydroquinone 8 g
potassium carbonate 50 g
potassium bromide 5 g
water to 1000 ml
Both two are given to be very high contrast developers. What do you
think about them?
P.
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