On 20 f=E9v, 03:16, Steven Woody <narkewo...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Since I've not managed to reache Lloyd Erlick's web site, so I like to
> ask some basic questions about how to exactly do single-tray printing
> here. Hope you professionals be kind to give me some clear answers.
> Thanks in advance.
Well, "professionals" most probably don't use the single-tray but
other more productive techniques (processors, etc ...).
If your space is very limited, then instead of using a single-tray, I
would use a drum or tube.
You can keep the lights on during the processing and pouring in/out is
just easier.
You may also use a motor to rotate the drum which lets you do
something else.
Then, you may use the chemicals one-shot or re-use them.
Of course, this setup does cost more than a single tray but IMO is
more efficient and agreable.
>
> I already have basic ideal about single-tray, i.e. pouring-in,
> pouring-out in only one tray, but I don't know ( For both RC &
> Fiber ):
>
> 1, Does basic processing steps keep unchanged? i.e., Develop, Stop,
> Fix#1, Fix#2, Rinse in wash acid if Fiber, Wash? Is there any
> additional step needed? ( In searching google, I found some people
> likely do extra Rine before Fix#1 and after Fix#2 and he do each Rinse
> three times )
I don't see why the rinse after the Fix#2 should be acid ...
And, after that rinse, I would definetely use a washaid before the
final wash as it lets you reduce the wash time significantly (roughly
by half).
> 2, Because Developer is always one-shop usage, so I think dillute it
> more would be reasonable. If I use Kodak D-72. What's a you suggested
> dillution and starndard developing time?
Keep in mind that very diluted developer requires a much longer
development time and if not done properly may result in poor blacks.
If you go the diluted route, then process a print with a normal
strength developer to have a comparison point.
>
> 3, What's the suggested Rinse time ( if Fiber ) and Wash time?
If you use a washaid, the rinse is around 5' then the commonly
accepted wash time is around half an hour but that may vary
significantly depending on your washer, the hardness of the water, its
temperature, if the prints stick together or not, etc ...
So the good recommendation is to check your wa****ng procedure with a
hypo residual test (I should have the formula somewhere or others will
give it to you) and then stick to your procedure whatever it is.
If you don't use a washaid (which I can't recommend), then you can
easily double these figures but I don't see the need for a rinse.
The rinse is meant to remove the superficial fix before another bath,
if there is no additional bath, then it is just part of the wash.
Don't forget the wash is done with (slowly) running water or water
baths replaced regularly.
For RC paper, then all wa****ng procedure is much simpler and quicker
and the substrate does not absorb the fix, only the emulsion needs to
be washed.
>
> Thanks.
Find below Ilford's procedure of processing films:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/download.asp?n=3D386
And papers:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/download.asp?n=3D390
You should be able to find similar do***ents on Kodak's site.
Best regards,
Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch
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