On Feb 21, 8:06 pm, Claudio Bonavolta <clau...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> On 20 f=E9v, 03:16, Steven Woody <narkewo...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
>
> > Since I've not managed to reache Lloyd Erlick's web site, so I like to
> > ask some basic questions about how to exactly do single-tray printing
> > here. Hope you professionals be kind to give me some clear answers.
> > Thanks in advance.
>
> Well, "professionals" most probably don't use the single-tray but
> other more productive techniques (processors, etc ...).
> If your space is very limited, then instead of using a single-tray, I
> would use a drum or tube.
> You can keep the lights on during the processing and pouring in/out is
> just easier.
> You may also use a motor to rotate the drum which lets you do
> something else.
> Then, you may use the chemicals one-shot or re-use them.
> Of course, this setup does cost more than a single tray but IMO is
> more efficient and agreable.
>
>
>
> > I already have basic ideal about single-tray, i.e. pouring-in,
> > pouring-out in only one tray, but I don't know ( For both RC &
> > Fiber ):
>
> > 1, Does basic processing steps keep unchanged? i.e., Develop, Stop,
> > Fix#1, Fix#2, Rinse in wash acid if Fiber, Wash? Is there any
> > additional step needed? ( In searching google, I found some people
> > likely do extra Rine before Fix#1 and after Fix#2 and he do each Rinse
> > three times )
>
> I don't see why the rinse after the Fix#2 should be acid ...
> And, after that rinse, I would definetely use a washaid before the
> final wash as it lets you reduce the wash time significantly (roughly
> by half).
>
> > 2, Because Developer is always one-shop usage, so I think dillute it
> > more would be reasonable. If I use Kodak D-72. What's a you suggested
> > dillution and starndard developing time?
>
> Keep in mind that very diluted developer requires a much longer
> development time and if not done properly may result in poor blacks.
> If you go the diluted route, then process a print with a normal
> strength developer to have a comparison point.
>
>
>
> > 3, What's the suggested Rinse time ( if Fiber ) and Wash time?
>
> If you use a washaid, the rinse is around 5' then the commonly
> accepted wash time is around half an hour but that may vary
> significantly depending on your washer, the hardness of the water, its
> temperature, if the prints stick together or not, etc ...
> So the good recommendation is to check your washing procedure with a
> hypo residual test (I should have the formula somewhere or others will
> give it to you) and then stick to your procedure whatever it is.
>
> If you don't use a washaid (which I can't recommend), then you can
> easily double these figures but I don't see the need for a rinse.
> The rinse is meant to remove the superficial fix before another bath,
> if there is no additional bath, then it is just part of the wash.
> Don't forget the wash is done with (slowly) running water or water
> baths replaced regularly.
>
> For RC paper, then all washing procedure is much simpler and quicker
> and the substrate does not absorb the fix, only the emulsion needs to
> be washed.
>
>
>
> > Thanks.
>
> Find below Ilford's procedure of processing
films:http://www.ilfordphoto.c=
om/applications/download.asp?n=3D386
> And papers:http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/download.asp?n=3D390
>
> You should be able to find similar documents on Kodak's site.
>
> Best regards,
> Claudio Bonavoltahttp://www.bonavolta.ch
Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have
some suggested brands? Thanks again.
-
woody
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