Re: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing

On Feb 22, 6:04=A0am, Steven Woody wrote:
>
> > > Dan,
>
> > > 1, What's the dillution you used for develo**** and fixer?
> > > 2, What is your workflow? =A0( i.e. how many fixing, how
> > > many rinses, I mean how you do the one-tray thing
> > > step by step )
>
> > =A0  =A0My method is Very simple and direct; develop, fix.
> >  No stop bath and no rinses. Prints after the fix go into
> >  a hold and soak tray. I use non-woven polyester sheets
> >  to keep the prints separated. The same for the two
> >  following soaks. The last soak is overnight.
>
> > =A0 =A0If I were to use D-72 I would make up one liter of
> >  working strength by diluting the full strength 1:7. That
> >  would be 125ml of stock plus 875ml of water. Use 1/3 of
> >  that liter of working strength for each 8x10. Allow 4 minutes
> >  of constant agitation for development. Turn the print over
> >  upon itself now and then to insure a thorough mixing
> >  of the fresh but very dilute solution
>
>  Thank you very much for your information.
>
> > =A0 =A0Let me know which fixer you use so that I can suggest
> >  a dilution. I use sodium thiosulfate pure and simple. It is
> >  a dry concentrate which will keep for many years. I mix
> >  fresh fixer just prior to use.
>
> I interested what you said pure hypo fixer and like to use it if
> possible. Here are two questions about it:
>
> 1, How to mix it? ( in what temperature and what dillution )
> 2, It looks like Adams's plain fixer. What's the difference
>     between them?
>
   If I were to mix enough fix for 3 8x10s I would dissolve 18
grams of sodium thiosulfate anhydrous to make 1 liter. Then
use 1/3 of that liter for each 8x10. That strength of fix will fix
Kentmere Bromide paper; a paper which takes more fix
than a few other papers I've tested.
   I use fresh fixer prepared at time of use so have no need
for preservative; the sulfite Adams added to his Plain Fixers.
My print sessions are short. If yours are protracted then a
little sulfite may be a good idea.
>
> And, because I still have one or two bottle of Ilford's rapid fixer.
> If i want to use it, can you suggest a usage for me? Thanks.
>
   To make a liter good for 3 8x10s include 30ml of the
concentrate. Plain or Rapid fix allow 4 minutes with
constant agitation. Now and then turn the print over
upon itself back to front and right to left. Both
developer and fixer are very dilute.
   A second fix is superfuless. A single use of a very dilute
fix does not build up any harmful amount of dissolved silver.
In fact silver levels are well within archival levels.
  Further more the amount of very dilute developer carried
into the fixer is too little to be of any bother. Skip the stop.
Any more questions?
   I don't recommend my method for all darkroom work. If
you've a small darkroom and the work volume is modest
it's a very good way to go. Like I've said, single-tray use
is similar to single tube processing, one-shot or save
for the next print. I though have enough dark area for
tray processing and seeing what is happening. Dan