In article <ukPQj.209$Yo2.32@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>,
"Ken Hart" <kwhart1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> "java" <javadesigner@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:fv09bb$9uhu$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Hi all:
> >
> > I don't know too much about photography. I own a
> > point and shoot digicam and that's about it.
> >
> > I have a stack of old 35mm film photographs. Some
> > of them are faded and some of them are stuck to
> > each other (meaning the photos were stacked on
> > top of each other, stuffed in a envelope, and now
> > the photos are kind of stuck to each other).
> >
> > These photos are quite precious. Yes, I was careless
> > back then.
> >
> > I don't have any negatives. Just the printed/processsed
> > photos (on normal paper or whatever it was that
> > CVS/Rite-Aid/etc used to print negatives onto).
> >
> > I would like to scan and archive all of these photos.
> > Money (to a reasonable limit) is no object -- I'm
> > willing to spend around $500-1000 if need be.
> >
> > So 2 questions:
> > 1) What is the best way to unstick the photos ? What
> > sort of solution/liquid would do the trick.
> > 2) What is the best way to scan these photos ? I've
> > heard a drum-scanner is the way to go -- any good/trusted
> > places in Philadelphia or Manhattan ? [If they would
> > unstick the photos for me, that's even better]
> >
> > Thanks and best regards,
> > --j
>
> First the drum scanner-- since you are dealing with prints, you should
get
> reasonable results from a good flatbed scanner. I like my Epson, but
there
> are many good models on the market at prices less than $100.
>
> As for un-sticking them: We need to determine whether they are RC (resin
> coated) paper, which is mor a plastic than a paper, or are they older
photo
> paper prints? If they are after the mid 1970's they are probably RC
paper.
> You could soak them in a tray of water with a little photo-flo added,
and
> they will fairly easily come apart. Rinse them a couple minutes and lay
them
> face up on cloth towels to dry. If they are the older paper, the job
will be
> more difficult.
>
> Since you are in a metro area, it may be a good idea to take them to a
> professional photo lab to get some recommendations. If they won't tackle
> them (liability issues), they may suggest someone who will try. You
could
> also try the conservator at a museum. Or check with Kodak, either their
> website or in Rochester.
>
> If you can determine that there are some stuck prints that aren't quite
so
> precious, use them to experiment.
In addition to the above try scanning at the maximum ppi/dpi your PC can
handle. If you intend them to only be viewed on screen or in a digital
frame, the 150-200 is perfect. Scan at 300 if you plan to print full
size or perhaps from to 50% bigger. 600 if you're aiming at 2x or 3x
magnification. Don't bother with anything more than 800 - you'll create
HUGE files and it'll take forever. Save your scans as TIFFs or
Photoshop's PSD - I'd recommend Elements 5 if your budget doesn't run to
Photoshop itself. Post scanning work depends on if the photos are
creased, faded etc or just blemished from being stuck together.
Remember, many older cameras had poorer lenses, what looks good at 2x2
inches may look bad at 6x6.
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